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Washer Door lock and lid lock: What It Does and Signs It's Failing

Front-loaders have a door lock assembly in the frame beside the door opening, with a hook or strike on the door that catches in it. Top-loaders use a lid switch or lid lock under the top panel, worked by a pin or strike on the lid. The washer won't fill or spin until this part reports the door or lid shut and locked.

Who should replace it

Handy homeowners can replace it

Related codes

21 error codes on this site point to this part.

How it works

Closing the door pushes the hook or strike into the lock and closes a switch. The control then locks the door (some lid locks use a small solenoid for this) and starts the cycle. Lid switch actuators are plastic and get brittle with age or snap when the lid gets slammed.

Signs it is failing

Door-open, door-lock and lid-lock codes point here first, once you've checked that no clothing is caught in the door and nothing blocks the strike.

Can you replace it yourself?

Unplug the washer before taking anything apart. A broken strike or hook is usually a few screws, but the lock itself means peeling back the door boot clamp on a front-loader or lifting the top on a top-loader. Never tape, jumper or force a lock to make the washer run, because it's what holds the door shut while the drum spins.

Always unplug the washer or switch off its breaker before opening any panel, and turn off water or gas where relevant.

Buying the right part

Get the lock by the full model number, and see whether screws and the wire harness come with it.

Error codes linked to the door lock and lid lock

Last reviewed 2026-10-19.