To level a washer, set a bubble level on the lid, adjust the front feet until it reads level side to side and front to back, then tighten the lock nut on each foot against the cabinet. Finish with the corner rock test: press down on opposite corners, and if the washer teeters, one foot still isn't carrying its share.
Tools and time
As a rough estimate, plan on 20 to 40 minutes for a washer that's already in place, longer if you have to pull it out of a tight closet. Whirlpool's tool list is short, and you probably own most of it.
- Bubble level (a phone level app works in a pinch)
- Adjustable wrench or slip-joint pliers for the lock nuts and feet
- A 2x4 offcut or a wood block to prop the front of the washer while you turn the feet
- Work gloves (the cabinet edges underneath can be sharp)
- A second person to tilt the washer; it's heavy and top-heavy
- Flashlight to see the feet and nuts under the cabinet
Before you start
Unplug the washer and make sure the drum is empty. If you need to slide it out, go slowly so you don't stretch or kink the fill and drain hoses.
Look at the floor. Feet can only make up for so much slope, and a soft or springy floor will undo a perfect leveling job. Whirlpool says to avoid raised wooden platforms and wants the washer on a firm, flat, solid floor.
On a front-loader, also check that the shipping bolts are out of the back panel. No amount of leveling will tame a washer with its tub still bolted in place.
Know which way to turn the feet on your washer
Direction varies by brand and by washer type, which is why people often end up raising a corner they meant to lower. Follow the manufacturer's instructions where you have them:
- Whirlpool top-loaders: clockwise lowers the foot, counterclockwise raises it.
- Samsung front-loaders: clockwise lowers that corner, counterclockwise raises it.
- Samsung top-loaders: the opposite. Clockwise raises the washer, counterclockwise lowers it.
- Other brands: give the foot a half turn, check the level, and reverse if it went the wrong way.
Level side to side and front to back
On a front-loader all four feet usually adjust. On many top-loaders you do most of the work at the front feet; Samsung, for one, has you adjust the front feet on its top-loaders. How the rear feet work depends on the model (see the next section).
Set the level across the top of the washer, side to side, near the front edge. Note which side is low.
Have your helper tip the washer back slightly, or prop the front on the wood block, to take the weight off the front feet.
Loosen the lock nut on the foot you need to adjust by turning it down toward the floor.
Turn the foot to raise or lower that corner. Small moves work best: a half turn at a time.
Lower the washer and check the level again. Repeat until the bubble sits centered.
Turn the level 90 degrees and check front to back. Adjust both front feet equally if the washer tips forward or back.
Check side to side once more, since front-to-back changes can shift it.
Rear feet on top-loaders
Some top-load washers have rear legs that adjust themselves when the washer is tipped and set back down, while others have screw-type rear feet. The owner's manual tells you which kind you have and how to set them. Do the rear after the front is close to level, then recheck, because changes at the back shift the reading.
Screw-type rear feet adjust and lock the same way as the front ones.
Lock the feet so they stay put
This is the step most people skip, and it's why washers drift out of level. Each foot has a lock nut that tightens up against the bottom of the cabinet. Once the washer is level, turn each nut up by hand until it meets the cabinet, then give it a firm snug with the wrench while holding the foot so it doesn't turn with it.
Samsung's wording is that the nut should sit flush against the bottom of the washer, and every foot should still be in contact with the floor afterward. If tightening a nut lifts a foot slightly, back off, readjust that foot and lock it again.
Test with the corner rock and a spin
Put your hands on two opposite top corners and press down firmly, one then the other. Do the same on the other diagonal. Whirlpool's guidance is to adjust the feet if the washer teeters at all. LG adds a refinement: if it rocks more in one direction than the other, loosen the nut on that foot, adjust it until the movement is equal both ways, then lock it.
Samsung has a handy check for its top-loaders that doesn't need a level. Fill the tub with water to just below the pulsator, and if the pulsator sits centered in the water, the washer is level.
Finish with a real test. Plug the washer in and run a small load on Rinse & Spin. Watch the final spin from the side. A little movement is normal; walking, banging or a lid that buzzes means something still needs adjusting.
Pedestals and stacked pairs
On a pedestal, Whirlpool removes the washer's own feet entirely. The washer bolts to the pedestal with black pads between the two, and the feet go on the pedestal instead. Level and lock those feet the same way, and check that the four connecting bolts (reached by pulling out the pedestal drawer) are tight.
For a stacked washer and dryer, level the washer on its own first, then stack the dryer with the stacking kit for your model, then check the level again across the top of the whole unit. The washer always goes on the bottom.
When to call a professional
If the washer won't stop rocking even with all four lock nuts tight, a foot may be stripped or the floor may be too uneven or springy for the feet to handle. A technician can check the feet and suspension, and a contractor can stiffen a weak floor.