Samsung says its washers have no true reset button: you unplug the washer or switch off its breaker for about 1 to 5 minutes, then power it back up. Write the error code down first, since a power cycle erases the code history a technician would use, and if the same code returns, request service instead of clearing it again.
Write down the code, then fix the cause
Samsung's support pages are clear on the order of things. Run the troubleshooting for the code on your display first, and only reset when those steps call for it. A reset clears the stored error history along with the code, and losing that record leaves a technician with less to go on.
Grab a phone picture of the panel and look the code up on this site. Samsung's code page groups C and E versions of many codes under one entry (4C and 4E, for example), so treat them as the same error. A few codes change meaning between models: Samsung notes that dC is a door error on some washers and an unbalanced load on others, so check your manual. If the code points at a kinked drain hose, a closed water faucet or a door that isn't shut, sort that out and the code usually goes away when you restart.
How long to cut the power
Samsung gives slightly different wait times on different support pages. They all describe the same thing: take power away long enough for the control to shut down, then bring it back.
Switch the washer off with its Power button.
Unplug it, or switch off its breaker if the outlet is hidden behind the washer or anywhere near water.
Wait at least 2 minutes. Five minutes covers every wait time Samsung lists.
Restore power, turn the washer on, check that the door or lid is fully shut, and start a cycle.
- General reset: unplug the washer or switch off its breaker for roughly 1 to 5 minutes.
- Unlisted codes or odd blinking lights: power off for 2 to 3 minutes.
- Fill codes (4C, 4E, nF): Samsung's code page lists a 1-minute power cut after you've checked the faucets and hoses.
- Budget about 10 minutes including the wait; no tools involved.
Codes where a restart is part of the fix
For some codes the power cycle is a real troubleshooting step, usually the last one before service. Do the hands-on checks first.
- E2: a button reads as stuck. Turn the washer off and unplug it, press and release each button around its edges, then power back up.
- 3C: Samsung lists it as a motor error. Its basic step is a 2 to 3 minute power cut, then a fresh cycle; if 3C comes back, that's a service call.
- AC: a communication error between the washer's boards. Samsung gives it the same 2 to 3 minute power cut before anything else.
- 9C1: the supply voltage is out of range. Samsung wants the washer on its own circuit with no extension cord; contact support if the code stays.
- UB: the load has bunched up. Untangle and spread out the laundry, shut the door and restart. No power cut needed.
Run Calibration mode after installing or moving the washer
Calibration mode is a documented Samsung feature, separate from a power reset. The washer spins the empty drum back and forth so it can relearn how its load-weight sensing reads, and on many models the display shows Cb while it runs. Samsung's UK page recommends it once the washer has been installed and again any time it has been moved. Samsung's US code page adds that running it can sometimes get the spin working again once a drain problem has been fixed.
The drum has to be completely empty or the calibration won't come out right. Take everything off the top of the washer too. On dial models, the door must be properly closed or the mode won't start. Depending on the model, the drum turns for up to about 3 minutes or for several minutes, and then the washer switches itself off.
The button sequence depends on the control panel. Samsung's UK support page lists four versions, summarized below. That page doesn't tie each version to model numbers, so match the buttons to your own panel and confirm in your owner's manual before trying any of them.
- Temp and Delay End buttons: turn the washer off and back on, hold Temp and Delay End together for 3 seconds until Cb shows, then press Start/Pause. A 0 on the display means it's done.
- Panels with a navigation dial: hold Functions, turn the dial to Calibration and press the circle button to confirm.
- Prefer Mode or Smart Control button: turn the washer off and on, hold that button for 3 seconds, use the arrows to pick Calibration, press OK, then Start/Pause.
- Touchscreen models: tap Settings, then Calibration, then Start.
Child Lock and other display messages that aren't faults
On newer Samsung washers, CL means Child Lock is on and the buttons won't respond. Samsung says turning the washer off and back on clears it, or you can switch Child Lock off with the button combination printed on your panel.
A few other messages clear themselves. A detergent or softener refill reminder on auto-dispense models goes away during the next cycle once you top it up. dn means the washer is downloading a software update and clears when that finishes; Samsung says to request service if dn stays up for more than 30 minutes with the washer on and the Wi-Fi working.
What a power cycle can't do
Samsung admits that a power cycle fixes the problem only in rare cases. It won't clear a clogged pump filter, open a closed faucet or level a washer that rocks on its feet. A fill code such as 4C will come straight back if the water supply is still shut off.
A code that reappears after one power cycle has earned a service visit. Samsung's guidance is to request service at that point, since resetting again wipes the code history the technician would read. The same goes for blinking light patterns on models without a full display: if the same combination comes back, book the repair.
When the washer won't power on
A Samsung washer that stays dark after a power cycle needs its supply checked before anything else. Confirm the breaker is on, the plug is all the way in, and the outlet powers a lamp. Avoid extension cords and power strips.
With good power at the outlet and nothing on the display, the fault is inside the machine. That's a job for a technician, since checking the boards and wiring means testing live circuits.
When to call a professional
Request service when the same code returns after one power cycle, when Calibration mode won't run or the drum won't turn during it, or when the washer has no power at a working outlet. Samsung will ask for the code, the full model number and a count of the power cycles you've done.
Parts involved
Error codes for this problem
- 4CWasher is not filling with waterSamsung
- E2Control panel button is stuckSamsung
- 3CMotor errorSamsung
- ACCommunication error between control boardsSamsung
- 9C1Power supply voltage errorSamsung
- UBLoad is unbalancedSamsung
- dCDoor or lid not closed and lockedSamsung
Washer error codes by brand
Seeing a code on the display? Pick your brand to look it up.
- Samsung14 codes
- Amana15 codes
- Bosch18 codes
- Electrolux8 codes
- Frigidaire17 codes
- GE16 codes
- Haier5 codes
- Hotpoint (UK)14 codes
- LG15 codes
- Maytag16 codes
- Whirlpool14 codes
All washer codes Washer parts guide
Manufacturer resources
The official pages we checked for this guide. Your owner's manual is still the final word for your exact model.
- SSamsungOfficial support
Related repair guides
- How to Reset an LG Washer: Power Reset, Codes and Tub Clean
LG's documented reset is a full power-down: turn the washer off, unplug it, switch off its breaker, hold START/PAUSE for 5 seconds, then restore power and try again.
- Washer Won't Spin? 8 Causes and How to Fix Them at Home
A washer that won't spin is usually reacting to an unbalanced load, a low or no-spin setting, too many suds or water it can't drain.
- Washer Won't Start? 8 Things to Check Before Calling for Service
A washer that won't start usually has one of three simple problems: the control lock is on, the door or lid isn't fully latched, or the Start button wasn't held long enough (Whirlpool says up to 3 seconds on many models).
- Dryer Won't Start? Door, Breaker, Fuse and Switch Checks
Most dryers that won't start have a door that isn't fully latched, a start button that wasn't held for 2 to 5 seconds, a control lock that's on, or a tripped breaker.